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Totonicapán
 Capital of one of the smaller departments, TOTONICAPÁN is reached down a road leading east from Cuatro Caminos. Surrounded by rolling hills and pine forests, the town stands at the heart of a heavily populated and intensely farmed little region. There is only one point of access and the valley has always held out against outside influence, shut off in a world of its own, and it's still a quiet place, ruffled only by the Tuesday and Saturday markets , which fill the two plazas to bursting. Until fairly recently a highly ornate traditional costume was worn here, but this has now disappeared and the town has instead become one of the chief centres of commercial weaving. To take a closer look at the work of local artisans, head for the town's visitor centre, the Casa de la Cultura , on 8 Av 2-17 (Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm; http://larutamayaonline.com/aventura.html ), which organizes pricey tours of the town (US$6-14) and classes in weaving and wood carving (US$21-49 per person, depending on class size); the funds raised help benefit the community. The only other sight is located in the northern of the two plazas: a grand though somewhat faded Neoclassical theatre , echoing the one in Quetzaltenango - it's currently undergoing restoration.
There are good connections between Totonicapán and Quetzaltenango, with buses shuttling back and forth every half-hour or so. Totonicapán is very quiet after dark, but if you want to stay, the best hotel is the Hospedaje San Miguel , a block from the plaza at 8 Av and 3 C (tel 766 1452; US$5-15): it's pretty comfortable and some rooms have bathrooms, but beware price rises before market days. The Pensión Blanquita (up to US$5) is a friendly and basic alternative opposite the filling station at 13 Av and 4 C.
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