|
Todos Los Santos Cuchumatán
 Spectacularly sited in its own remote deep-cut river valley, TODOS SANTOS CUCHUMATÁN is many travellers' favourite place in Guatemala. Though the sheer beauty of the alpine surroundings is one attraction, it's the unique culture that is really astounding. The traje worn here is startling: the men wear red-and-white candy-striped trousers, black woollen breeches and pinstripe shirts, decorated with dayglo pink collars, while the women wear dark blue cortes and superbly intricate purple huipiles . It's the tradition and isolation that have made the village so attractive to visitors, photographers in particular, though such attention has not always been welcome. In 2000, an angry mob attacked and killed a Japanese tourist and his Guatemalan guide, believing that the former, who was taking pictures of local children, was a Satanist baby stealer. Though the perpetrators have been jailed, and the community as a whole was stunned and deeply remorseful, the depth of misunderstanding serves to highlight the cultural chasm between this remote, highly susperstitious mountain community and the developed world. There have been no incidents since, but it's obviously very important to respect local sensitivities and be very judicious about taking photographs, particularly of children.
The Todosanteros are perhaps the proudest of all Guatemala's Maya people - there is a distinctive swagger in the step of the men - and the fiesta (on November 1) is one of the most famous in the country, during which the village is taken over by unrestrained drinking, dancing and marimba music. The three-day event opens with an all-day horse race, and there is a massive stampede as the inebriated riders tear up the course, thrashing their horses with live chickens, their capes flowing out behind them. On the second day, "The Day of the Dead", the action moves to the cemetery, with marimba bands and drink stalls set up amongst the graves - a day of intense ritual that combines grief and celebration. By the final day of the fiesta, the streets are littered with bodies and the jail packed with brawlers. The Saturday market , although nothing like as riotous, also fills the village.
The village itself is pretty - a modest main street with a few shops, a plaza and a church - but is totally overshadowed by the looming presence of the Cuchumatanes mountains. Above the village - follow the track that goes up behind the Comedor Katy - is the small Maya site of Tojcunanchén , where you'll find a couple of mounds sprouting pine trees. The site is occasionally used by brujos for the ritual sacrifice of animals.
Todos Santos is home to two interesting language schools where you can study Spanish or Mam; a percentage of the profits from both schools goes to local development projects.
|
