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Tecpán
 West of Chimaltenango along a fast section of the Carretera Interamericana is the small town of TECPÁN , ninety minutes or so from Guatemala City. Tecpán may well have been the site chosen by Alvarado as the first Spanish capital, to which the Spanish forces retreated in August 1524, after they'd been driven out of Iximché. Today it's a place of no great interest, though it has a substantial number of restaurants and guesthouses catering to a mainly Guatemalan clientele.
About 5km south of Tecpán on a beautiful exposed hillside are the ruins of Iximché (daily 8am-5pm; US$3.50), the pre-conquest capital of the Kaqchikel, protected on three sides by steep slopes and surrounded by pine forests. The Kaqchikel allied themselves with the conquistadors from the early days of the Conquest, so the structures here suffered less than most at the hands of the Spanish. Since then, however, time and weather have taken their toll, and the majority of the buildings that once housed a population of ten thousand have disappeared, leaving only a few stone-built pyramids, plazas and a couple of ball courts. Nevertheless, the site is strongly atmospheric and its grassy plazas, ringed with pine trees, are marvellously peaceful, especially during the week, when you may well have the place to yourself. The ruins are still actively used as a focus for Maya worship: sacrifices and offerings take place down a small trail through the pine trees behind the final plaza.
To get there , take any bus travelling along the Carretera Interamericana between Chimaltenango and Los Encuentros and ask to be dropped at Tecpán. To get to the ruins, simply walk through Tecpán and out the other side of the plaza, passing the Centro de Salud, and follow the road through the fields for about 5km - an hour or so on foot. With any luck you'll be able to hitch some of the way, particularly at weekends when the road can be fairly busy. There's camping at the site, but bring your own food as the small shop sells little more than drinks. Iximché's shady location is perfect for a picnic or barbecue. If you're not planning to camp, be back on the Carretera Interamericana before 6pm to be sure of a bus.
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