Santa Lucía Cotzumalguapa

SANTA LUCÍA COTZUMALGUAPA is an uninspiring Pacific town a short distance north of the highway from Cocales. The main reason to visit is to explore the archeological sites that are scattered around the surrounding cane fields. You should bear in mind, though, that getting to them isn't easy unless you have your own transport or hire a taxi.

As usual, the plaza is the main centre of interest. Santa Lucía's shady square is disgraced by one of the ugliest buildings in the country (although there's plenty of competition), a memorably horrific green and white concrete municipal structure. Just off the plaza you'll find several cheap and scruffy hotels , the Pensión Reforma (up to US$5), 4 Av 4-71, and the Hospedaje el Carmen (up to US$5), around the corner on 5 C. The nearest upmarket place is the Caminotel Santiaguito (tel 882 5435, fax 882 2285; US$15-25), a slick motel on the highway at km 90.5, which has a swimming pool and restaurant.

Back in town at least three banks will change your travellers' cheques - try Banco Curative in the plaza, which accepts most varieties. For food , the Comedor Lau on 3 Av does reasonable Chinese meals, or there's a huge Pollo Campero on the north side of the square; there's a Sarita ice-cream parlour on 3 Av. For a drink, Cevicheria La Española on 4 Av, south of the plaza, is the best bet.

Pullman buses passing along the highway will drop you at the entrance road to town, ten minutes' walk from the centre, while second-class buses from Guatemala City go straight into the terminal, a few blocks from the plaza. Buses to the capital leave the terminal hourly until 4pm, or you can catch a pullman from the highway.