Santa Catarina Palopó and San Antonio Palopó

On the eastern shore of the lake, backed up against the slopes, are a couple of villages, the first of which, SANTA CATARINA PALOPÓ , is just 4km from Panajachel. The people of Santa Catarina used to live almost entirely by fishing and trapping crabs, but the introduction of black bass into the lake to create a sport-fishing industry has put an end to all that, as the bass eat the smaller fish. They've now turned to farming and migratory work, with many of the women travelling to Panajachel and Antigua to peddle their weaving. The women wear stunning huipiles , in vibrant turquoise and purple zigzags.

Much of the shoreline as you leave Santa Catarina has been bought and developed, and great villas, ringed by impenetrable walls and razor wire, have come to dominate the lakeside. Here you'll find the landmark Hotel Villa Santa Catarina (tel 762 1291, fax 762 2013, villasdeguatemala.com ; US$60-80), which enjoys a prime lakeside plot, with 31 very comfortable rooms, two banqueting halls, a pool and restaurant. Beyond here, the road winds around the shore for another 3km until you reach the upmarket San Tomas Bella Vista Retreat (tel 762 1566, www.santomasatitlanlodge.guate.com ; US$60-80), with fourteen attractive bungalows, all boasting great views, plus a pool and restaurant.

Another 5km brings you to SAN ANTONIO PALOPÓ , a larger and more traditional village, squeezed in beneath a steep hillside. Because it is on the tour-group itinerary, the villagers have become a bit pushy in selling their weavings. But, despite this, the village is quite interesting and certainly very traditional. The hillsides above San Antonio are well irrigated and terraced, reminiscent of rice paddies, and most men wear the village traje of red shirts with vertical stripes and short woollen kilts. Women wear almost identical shirts, made of the same fabric with subtle variations to the collar design. The whitewashed central church is also worth a look; just to the left of the entrance are two ancient bells.

Regular pick-ups run between Panajachel and San Antonio, passing through Santa Catarina and leaving approximately every thirty minutes (the last one returns to Panajachel from San Antonio at 5pm) - and of course there are boats .

If you decide to stay in San Antonio there are two options: the fairly upmarket Hotel Terrazas del Lago (tel 7621288; US$25-40), down by the water, with beautiful views, or the very simple but clean pensión (up to US$5) owned by Juan López Sánchez near the entrance to the village. Try the comedor below the church for a cheap meal .